transportation and fuel

You are on your own. The Army is MIA and our government is gone! There are no communications of any kind. Cities and towns have gone dark, and zombies fill the streets. The dead have risen and it would seem to be the end of the world. Help me, Mommy!

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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by JuliusCreed »

I will use a mountain bike. It will be fuelled by many granola bars and jugs of Gatorade
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Severus Snape »

The nissan leaf. 100% electric. How will I generate power to re-charge the batteries? Solar or wind.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Gamer »

Severus Snape wrote:The nissan leaf. 100% electric. How will I generate power to re-charge the batteries? Solar or wind.


Now you only need to adapt it's special recharge station to your new solar or wind generator and to be able to take it with you if you ever need to bug out fast.

JuliusCreed wrote:I will use a mountain bike. It will be fuelled by many granola bars and jugs of Gatorade

Did anyone else picture him saying, "somewhere in that store may be the last granola bar and jug of gatorade in existance'" :lol:
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by King Newt »

I would need a big enough vehicle to take my family in. So at minimum I am needing a small sedan. My wife has a Sanata, so that would work for now.

If i didn't have any of my family. It wouldn't matter. All that would matter is the caliber of round I would use to off myself.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

Subaru forester converted to diesel plug-in hybrid. Extra fuel cell for vegetable oil. Small gasoline generator and fuel cell for it for charging. Couple of thin film solar panels.

Basically allow the sucker to run off anything. Got diesel, throw it in the tank. Only have some cooking oils? Throw it in the other tank. Managed to syphon some gas? Throw it in the generator's tank to charge the batteries.

Of course it would take quite a long time to do the conversion, so I'd probably go with something like a VW jetta TDI wagon, add in a veggie oil conversion (cheap, quick and easy).
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Ravenwing »

My F350 Dually 4x4 extended cab. Flex-fuel Powerstroke. Runs on either regular diesel or vegetable oil. Got a hand pump and several jugs in it already, with a thick sheet metal cover. Powerstrokes are common, easy to find, and a dime a dozen. At least where I live down here in the Southwest. As long as I don't go further then Oklahoma, or Wyoming, I'm good.

If I didn't have my Ford, I'd snag the Dodge version. A forty dollar part ( Well Ford Motorcraft part, I assume Mopar's the same. A extra filter, with sensor incase you're wondering.) converts a Cummins or Detroit diesel to flex fuel options, and you don't need to switch or add an extra tank to it. You can mix fuels and it runs just fine.

I'd only take a chevy if I couldn't find a dodge or a ford, then I'm more likely to grab some with a 454, or the new 350 Hemi. Chevy Gas engines are great, but their diesel leaves much to be desired. I'd never even consider a toyota, nissan, or any of the other rice burners. Ditto for a car or a motorcycle. If zombies are running around either choice is suicide as far as my bet goes. Plus I can put a plow on my truck and knock most things out of my way if it needs done.

That being said though, I do have a soft spot for 'roadwarrior' style cars. It wouldn't be hard to rig up an old mustang, or camero like that. Although admitedly you don't really want to hit anything with one. Fiberglass and unibodies don't handle impacts well.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Timmee »

warhawk wrote:So, since society as we know it has come to an end, :cry: what do you or your players plan to ues for transportation, and how do you plan to fuel said transportation? :D


In the campaign I'm currently in, I've got an up-armored SUV. As to fuel, we found a gas station that still had fuel in the tanks, but no power to run the pumps. Luckily we have a small generator, and I (the combat engineer) was able to directly run the pump off the generator, so we could fill our tank and some gas cans.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Illendaver »

Hellbound of SLB wrote:
warhawk wrote:
Hellbound of SLB wrote:http://epluselectricbike.com/buy-bikes-online/signature-electric-bikes/tidalforce-bike-m-750
properly supported and rigged you can live off this thing. takes time but the portable powerfilms can recharge it. pedal when you need to and use the charge to get out of dodge when you have to.
works great now.

:(
I don't know about your GM but mine would require use to either purshase them at the start of a campagin (very costly) or find them after Z-Day, which would be nearly impossible since there are only 250 made. :-(


search the site you can find mods for other bikes cost only about a 1k plus bike.


Heck, I already have an old china bike that I got a small engine put on. Gets about 50 miles to the gallon, I sprayed that gunk in the tires that keeps them from going flat, plus I have a basket in back to haul stuff around in. It only gets up to about 30 mph, but I don't really need it to go faster than that. The whole thing only cost me about 300 bucks. I found the bike at a yard sale, the motor was 150 to buy it and get it professionally installed at the bike shop, and it needed new tires with the gunk. Throw a spare chain and a 5 gallon reserve of gas in the back and you are good to go all week.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

If I was going small I'd look in to a hybrid dirt bike. Convert a dirt bike to all electric operation with a medium sized battery pack. A 5kw motor and 4kw/hr lithium ion battery pack should do her up nice. You could probably get up to 40-45mph on flat roads and have a range of probably up around 50 miles if you are taking it easy on flat ground. I'd then rig it up with a small single cylinder gas engine to an alternator and voltage converter to charge it on the go if need be. A properly wound high output alternator and the right gas engine (lawnmower engine would work fine) could output a good 3kw and would allow the bike to cruise at a decent speed while under "gas power". You can then use the gas engine for charging while off also if you want, or a small folded solar panel. Now a flexible solar panel won't give you much charge, but you can find some 40-60w flexible panels that'll fold up small. 10hrs of daylight would get you probably 5-7 miles of range. Its not much, but unless you are cruising around every single day you could probably keep it near topped off.

The whole arrangement wouldn't make the dirt bike "too" heavy and you could use relatively little gas.

As an alternate I'd go with a custom off road 4x4. Sort of a shrunken tube frame dune buggy. 2 person seating, tube frame with light plastic or aluminum panels (to keep the zombies out) and UV resistant lexan windows again to keep it light. Same deal as above, convert it to electric operation, but probably source a bigger electric motor, or to make it cheaper a pair of lower output electric motors, or even 4 to power each wheel. 4 4-5kw electric motors would give the thing some get up and go if it was kept light (you could probably keep it under 1,000lbs and would have the equivelent of 20-25hp and it would have gobs of torque for that hp since they are electric motors). A good sized lithium ion battery pack of around 15-20kw/hr and you'd probably have a top speed of around 65-70mph on good flat roads and a range of 80-120 miles. A roof mounted 100-200w solar panel for keeping the battery charge up combined with one or more folded flexible solar panels for additional charging when parked and safe could keep the batteries topped off.

Again for emergencies or when prolonged long range is necessary you could also equip it with, in this case probably a better idea, a generator to charge the battery pack on the go. Build a 4-5kw diesel generator directly in to the vehicle and it would keep things like (probably only add 80lbs or so). Its not enough to keep th thing at top speed, but it would probably give it another 30-60% range if you are keeping things down to a resonable cruising speed (40mph+/-) and would recharge the battery pack quickly (4-5hrs, which is a lot better than 10-14 days of ideal light with just the roof mounted solar panel, again if you aren't driving far/often that would be just fine to keep the batteries topped off just going 5-10 miles a day and more like 10-20 miles a day if plugging in some accessory solar panels when parked).
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Razzinold »

Ravenwing wrote:That being said though, I do have a soft spot for 'roadwarrior' style cars. It wouldn't be hard to rig up an old mustang, or camero like that. Although admitedly you don't really want to hit anything with one. Fiberglass and unibodies don't handle impacts well.


Ummm fiberglass bodies ? What year of Camaro are you talking about ? Any car you would consider "roadwarrior style" I assume would be from an older year. As an example, the 1969 Z28 Camaro my father owns is not fiberglass, currently has a 350 (waiting for the 302 to finish being built) and it pushes nearly 500hp. Any zombie you hit will definatly go splat with that much torque and horsepower. So it's tough, roomy, fast and powerful, that's the upside. The downside? It's noisy as hell and would burn through fuel like crazy, and being from 1969 you would need a high octane fuel to keep it running smooth (as well as adding octane booster) race fuel would be even better if you could get your hands on it.

That being said, I would still take my Chevelle for the same reason. I have a 1969 Chevelle SS with a 396. It could seat me, my wife, two kids, plus gear comfortably, plus it has a large trunk for even more gear (we took it camping before and the trunk fit everything we needed). It's a nice big solid metal car that is well built and can handle a lot punishment mechanically before breaking down and GM parts would be easy to find. Even though it's loud and burns gas quick, at least it would look totally badass in the middle of a zombie apocalypse, :lol:

I would drive that and maybe swap it out for a 4x4 Suburban, or Dodge truck, something like that.

Well that and the only other option would be to use my everyday car which is a Toyota Yaris, it's quick enough, quiet and AWESOME on fuel, but has no room to store much gear wise.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

Except if you had to go off road anywhere other than a flat field. Or if you decided to try to run down a zombie. Cars like that (most muscle cars and for that matter lowish vehicles in general) tend to cause zombies/pedestrians to go up on the hood and through the windshield. Having a zombie for a passenger after I decided to ram them at 40mph is not my idea of a good time.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Razzinold »

True, some muscle cars sit low, and with wide woods, usually slanting up towards the windshield at just the right angle do make perfect ramps for bodies to slide up, this can be overcome by adding some protective metal frame over the windshield, or inside the windshield. Kinda of like making a crash up derby car, but don't remove the glass. Outside metal frame to protect you from bodies and the glass protects you from infected blood.

Find a car for someone from the government or ambassador and see if you can steal the bullet proff glass from it, lol.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

Corvettes are fiber glass body. I've never heard of any vehicles with fiber glass frame. They wouldn't be able to pass NHTSA crash tests developed in the last 40 years.

I'd skip the bullet proof glass. Most of that stuff is an inch or two thick which would require radical modification of the doors to accept it, and you'd have vulnerable doors even if the "glass" was unbreakable.

If you wanted something resistant to impact I'd just hit any major home renovation store. Grab some regular poly carbonate sheets and cut new windows out of it. It isn't really bullet proof (bullet proof glass tends to either be many layers of glass with plastic/poly cabonate layers in between or else really, really thick poly carbonate) at that thickness unless you are trying to stop bird shot or air pelley guns, but it'll be proof against breakage from fists and generally impacts (really hard ones will still snap it/break it).

I'd then cover all of the windows with wire mesh cage. Probably make it out of welded 1/8" steel rods also from a home improvement store. The doors would have the outer panels removed and weld in some 16 gauge steel sheets from a home improvement store and then reattach the outer panels back on. Do the same to the underbody and hood/quarter panels.

Attach a transmission cooler and oil cooler (or larger ones if the vehicle already has them). Build and attach another 1/8" steel rod cage covering the radiator and coolers.

Add a secondary fuel tank in back and a second vehicle battery.

Oh if you are able to, stiffer springs, increase road height and soup up the engine just a little to help cope with all the extra weight (16 gauge steel panels 12x12in weigh about 2 1/4lbs and you would, ideally, use maybe 100 panels for the whole vehicle.)

Call it a day with your ultimate road warrior vehicle.

Should be proof against zombies and high bullet resistance (I didn't say bullet proof). Between the existing body panel, door structure and a couple of 16 gauge steel panels added in (at least doubled up) it should stand a good chance of stopping light buck shot and light pistol rounds at resonable ranges, though high powered pistol rounds and rifle rounds are probably going to go right through.

If you have plenty of time and can stand the weight penalty you could make homemade sandwich armor. Take those steel sheets, add a layer of ceramic tiles inside with poly cabonate sheets behind and then finally the other steel sheet. Use strips of steel cut from other plates and weld together.

The ceramic is generally hard enough to cause most bullets, even FMJ rounds, to deform or break and the layer (3 sheets would be better, they are generall ~.1" thick each, so ~.3" total) of poly carbonate and steel sheet behind will help absorb the round after breaking it.

It isn't going to be anywhere near as good as a like thickness of steel or aluminum, but a lot lighter and probably would stop most any pistol round and some lighter rifle rounds.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by dargo83 »

u could put phone books in the door panals to make it more bullet resistant
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Razzinold »

The Underground wrote:
Razzinold wrote:Ummm fiberglass bodies ? What year of Camaro are you talking about ?
.

i know there are fiberglass body cars, cant name any off the top of my head but at least one was fiberglass boody and frame; there was some guy who found one in a junkyard and wanted to restore it (found it by accodent looking for something else).
as to "raod warrior" type, why not? you can arm just about anything (not that it's such a good idea in some cases).


I know there are cars with fiberglass bodies I wasn't disputing that, my father has a 1965 Corvette Stingray with a fiberglass body, I was only asking what year of Camaro you were talking about with a fiberglass body.

As to what I meant by "road warrior" car, I assumed you were going for a certain look (which is why i suggested using an older model car) because most modern cars wouldn't look as cool in a "road warrior" style (IMO). I believe Max's car was a modified 1973 Ford Falcon XB GT Coupe, (but I could be wrong) known as the Interceptor and that looked cool. However lets say a 1988 Ford Falcon just wouldn't look quite the same all done up with weapons.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

A couple of things to keep in mind, before the world completely melts down there will be plenty of people burning through the gas in their tanks, trying to run for the hills, gas stations having runs on them, etc. With a little looking and scavenging getting gas still shouldn't be a huge deal, but it might be more than minor skills. Might have to resort to puncturing gas tanks at the low point to get the last few drops of fuel out and you probably won't get syphoning a tank (a tank typically holds around a pint or maybe a little more fuel in it even when empty as the fuel pump pickup can't actually scavenge the very bottom most bit of the tank).

Longer term, more than about a year to two years and most of the gas is going to be getting stale. If you have a carbourated vehicle you might be able to tune it run on, a fuel injected vehicle is going to have a rougher time of it. Possibly still run on it, but rough idle, reduced power, harder starts, possible fuel system corrosion. There will get to a point where the fuel is too stale and a car just won't run on it.

Diesel/kerosene has a bit less of this issue, but you'll still run in to it at some point trying to run a vehicle on it.

Best bet is something that can run on diesel and add an auxillary fuel tank, filters and preheater to run it on veggie oils. Throw a dirt bike on back with saddle bags to run on any gas that you can find and for really rough ground/short trips. Make sure you weld on a really good muffler to anything you are driving around (dirt bike included).

If you used gasoline or diesel persevatives you could get the fuel to last longer, but generally they only extend the life of the fuel by 1-2 years.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Oberoth »

azazel1024 wrote:Longer term, more than about a year to two years and most of the gas is going to be getting stale. If you have a carbourated vehicle you might be able to tune it run on, a fuel injected vehicle is going to have a rougher time of it. Possibly still run on it, but rough idle, reduced power, harder starts, possible fuel system corrosion. There will get to a point where the fuel is too stale and a car just won't run on it.



Correct. As a Auto Mechanic I can tell you that gas can and does go bad if left for too long. This depends highly on the grade of gasoline and how it's stored. If you stored it in a completely sealed container (So it doesn't evaporate the volatile components, or react to the oxygen in the air) it could last decades. However, this way of storing gas is discouraged and not in practice for obvious reasons. That's why if I had a choice I wouldn't pick a new vehicle. Carburated all the way. Also the older vehicles are less complex, less to go wrong at the wrong time and easier to maintain with the limited resources at hand.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

And a GM/Chevy 305 is still the most sold engine ever and parts can be found just about anywhere. Get a carbed version and you are golden.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Razzinold »

Don't you mean the GM/Chevy 350? It's in pretty much every model they make, production of the 350 started in 1967 and the 305 didn't start until 1976.
GM 350's are kind of like universal blood types, you can put them in any GM product. I used to own a 1973 Pontiac Ventura, and it had Pontiac's version of a 350. We swapped a GM 350 into it as a straight exchange.
I would put 305 in second place as the next most used GM product.

"It was, however, the 350 cu in (5.7 L) series that came to be the best known Chevrolet small block. The engine's oversquare 4.00-inch bore and 3.48-inch stroke (102 mm by 88 mm) are nearly identical to the 436 hp (325 kW) LS3 engine of today, but much has changed. Installed in everything from station wagons to sports cars, in commercial vehicles, and even in boats and (in highly modified form) airplanes, it is by far the most widely used small-block of all-time." - according to Wikipedia
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

Yes sorry I meant the 350 and not the 305, though as you mentioned the 305 is pretty common also.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Razzinold »

Yeah if you check wikipedia it shows you the various makes and years that used the 305, there are quite a few. But those were regular cars, not muscle cars (which is normally the extent of my car knowledge since that's what i'm into :D )
The 350 shows up in a lot of 1960's makes, I believe the 67 Camaro was the first one to offer it until 1969 when you get order a special Z28 with a 302
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Oberoth »

Horses aside I'm still of the opinion of using wood gas. It's readily available, simple to set up and abundant.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by azazel1024 »

I was going to come up with a bunch of stuff to add, but Operator6 pretty much covered it. I guess the simplified version is, you can have a horse without shoes and without feeding them a "fancy" diet. However, you are going to have a horse that isn't much good as a pack animal or a riding animal. You could get limited use out of it, but frankly it would almost be more trouble than it is worth even with the "limited" maintenance you are doing. You couldn't ride it much, or far or loaded with much.

As mentioned, they are not quite and you can smell them from a lot further away than you can a person who hasn't bathed in a few weeks. Better than an unmuffled car for stealth, but frankly a really well muffled car, truck or even dirt bike under the right circumstances is going to be quieter than a horse (at lower speeds at least). Horse feet, shoed or not, clopping on pavement or gravel paths makes a lot more noise than a well muffled car driving at 10-20mph, let alone whineying or neying.

They'd certainly have their uses, but "lone man and his horse" is a terrible idea. You ideally need a honest to goodness farm to keep the horse on to make real use out of him/her (feed, housing, tools to keep them in good health, paddock to roam when not being used, etc).
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Ravenwing »

Razzinold wrote:
Ravenwing wrote:That being said though, I do have a soft spot for 'roadwarrior' style cars. It wouldn't be hard to rig up an old mustang, or camero like that. Although admitedly you don't really want to hit anything with one. Fiberglass and unibodies don't handle impacts well.


Ummm fiberglass bodies ? What year of Camaro are you talking about ? Any car you would consider "roadwarrior style" I assume would be from an older year. As an example, the 1969 Z28 Camaro my father owns is not fiberglass, currently has a 350 (waiting for the 302 to finish being built) and it pushes nearly 500hp. Any zombie you hit will definatly go splat with that much torque and horsepower. So it's tough, roomy, fast and powerful, that's the upside. The downside? It's noisy as hell and would burn through fuel like crazy, and being from 1969 you would need a high octane fuel to keep it running smooth (as well as adding octane booster) race fuel would be even better if you could get your hands on it.

That being said, I would still take my Chevelle for the same reason. I have a 1969 Chevelle SS with a 396. It could seat me, my wife, two kids, plus gear comfortably, plus it has a large trunk for even more gear (we took it camping before and the trunk fit everything we needed). It's a nice big solid metal car that is well built and can handle a lot punishment mechanically before breaking down and GM parts would be easy to find. Even though it's loud and burns gas quick, at least it would look totally badass in the middle of a zombie apocalypse, :lol:

I would drive that and maybe swap it out for a 4x4 Suburban, or Dodge truck, something like that.

Well that and the only other option would be to use my everyday car which is a Toyota Yaris, it's quick enough, quiet and AWESOME on fuel, but has no room to store much gear wise.


lol sorry been on vacation.

I had a 94 Z28, while the frame was metal, the fenders, doors, and rear quarter panels were all fiberglass/plastic. Since Chevy does its body upgrades every four years(Or use to. I'ma ford guy myself) I assumed that from 94 till the end of the old production(Before the Bumblebee reboot for Camero) were the same. I know the old Iroc's had a lot of fiberglass in them as well.
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Re: transportation and fuel

Unread post by Razzinold »

Ravenwing wrote:
Razzinold wrote:
Ravenwing wrote:That being said though, I do have a soft spot for 'roadwarrior' style cars. It wouldn't be hard to rig up an old mustang, or camero like that. Although admitedly you don't really want to hit anything with one. Fiberglass and unibodies don't handle impacts well.


Ummm fiberglass bodies ? What year of Camaro are you talking about ? Any car you would consider "roadwarrior style" I assume would be from an older year. As an example, the 1969 Z28 Camaro my father owns is not fiberglass, currently has a 350 (waiting for the 302 to finish being built) and it pushes nearly 500hp. Any zombie you hit will definatly go splat with that much torque and horsepower. So it's tough, roomy, fast and powerful, that's the upside. The downside? It's noisy as hell and would burn through fuel like crazy, and being from 1969 you would need a high octane fuel to keep it running smooth (as well as adding octane booster) race fuel would be even better if you could get your hands on it.

That being said, I would still take my Chevelle for the same reason. I have a 1969 Chevelle SS with a 396. It could seat me, my wife, two kids, plus gear comfortably, plus it has a large trunk for even more gear (we took it camping before and the trunk fit everything we needed). It's a nice big solid metal car that is well built and can handle a lot punishment mechanically before breaking down and GM parts would be easy to find. Even though it's loud and burns gas quick, at least it would look totally badass in the middle of a zombie apocalypse, :lol:

I would drive that and maybe swap it out for a 4x4 Suburban, or Dodge truck, something like that.

Well that and the only other option would be to use my everyday car which is a Toyota Yaris, it's quick enough, quiet and AWESOME on fuel, but has no room to store much gear wise.


lol sorry been on vacation.

I had a 94 Z28, while the frame was metal, the fenders, doors, and rear quarter panels were all fiberglass/plastic. Since Chevy does its body upgrades every four years(Or use to. I'ma ford guy myself) I assumed that from 94 till the end of the old production(Before the Bumblebee reboot for Camero) were the same. I know the old Iroc's had a lot of fiberglass in them as well.


Perhaps on newer models (have to remember to ask my dad about his '97 Camaro) but I was talking about the older "classic" cars, i.e. 67-69 first generation Camaros
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